Jason's Upside Down Garden 09 - 12

July 13, 2009 More things growing. Finally have peppers turning color and have some really huge cucumbers!

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Wild Dove Nest in Tomato Planter on Fire Escape in San Francisco

A wild Dove took over my dead tomato plant right outside of my apartment's fire escape and made it her nest.

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Topsy Turvy week 3 - Adam & Dawns' Topsy Turvy 06/22/10

Growing our very own Topsy Turvy Tomato and Strawberries- Growing started! Little garden growing! Sorry its late, Ive been busy with work and my car :p Will be releasing weekly Vids Please leave advice in the comments, Subscribe to see how the pan out!

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Upside Down Planter

Of course you must have heard all the buzz talk for using an upside down planter and wondered whether it's really worth it. An upside down planter is a great product that takes the hard work out of planting those tomatoes. For those that would still like to make their upside down planters, here's how you can do it. Take a sturdy plastic container (it can also be a old plastic bucket). It should have a handle so that you can hang the container upside down and take it from one place to another. Normally a 5-gallon container should be used for making the upside down planter.

Want to make your own upside down planter?

Wash the upside down planter container with household bleach and water. Use about a tablespoon of bleach and a gallon of water for rinsing out the container. Rinse it out thoroughly to take out the dirt and kill any small insects or bugs that may be inside the container.

Now turn the container over and make a 2 inches diameter hole in the centre of the bucket. You can use a utility knife or a drill machine with a 2' bit. Clean out the edges of the hole thoroughly. Sharp edges are difficult to manoeuvre and you may cut yourself while planting the tomato plant in the upside down planter.

Putting the soil inside the planter

Turn the container over the right side and put a coffee filter where you have just made a hole. You can even put a thick piece of cloth or some leftover landscaping material. Now put the potting soil in the container and fill it up as you would fill up a normal garden pot. With your fingers take out the coffee filter paper. Make space for the plant inside the pot so just like you would in a normal garden container.

The purpose of the filter or the cloth is to contain the soil inside the container. Now plant your favourite vegetables like the tomatoes inside the upside down planter. Ensure that the plant won't fall off. Else you would be left standing with the just the planter.

Hanging the planter

Find sturdy hanging poles or hooks for your upside down planter. These planters can be hung anywhere. You can even plant some seasonal flowers or even herbs on top of the plant. This way you can create a whole hanging garden.

All you need to do now is fill up your topsy turvy style DIY containers with potting soil and get a great tomato plant or any other plant that you may fancy. The next step is to water the plant that you have potted inside the upside down planter. Essentially the soil should be moist enough for the plant to absorb all the nutrients present in the soil.

Water the plant according to its needs

The planters should be watered according to their needs and also the climate. If you have a hotter climate, then you should water the plant frequently. It's important that water shouldn't be trapped inside the container. If there is water logging inside the container, it can rot away the roots and kill the plants. This is critical in a DIY.

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The Best Way to Grow Climbing Plants

Climbing plants are a great garden feature. They add depth and can be used to cover old fencing or alternatively be used to help create different areas within your garden. Climbing plants provide privacy which can be highly beneficial especially in built up areas.

Successful climbing plants

The best way to grow climbing plants is to use garden trellis. This can either be attached to a wall or fence panel and provides your plants with a solid secure structure to climb around. Buying planters with trellis is another great way of adding height to your garden. Planters with trellis give you far more freedom to choose where you want to grow your climbing plants as the trellis does not have to be secured to an existing structure.

* To begin with use string to train plants to grow up and around trellis, this will provide additional security for plants which are not yet strong enough to grow upwards unaided.

* If you plan to grow vegetables with trellis, the trellis will give you easier access to the fruits of your labour as well as reducing the amount of rotten fruit or vegetables as the plant has less contact with the soil. More air can circulate around your vegetable when grown in this manner which will result in healthier fruits and better veggies!

Trellis essentials

* Find a sheltered spot that is out of the wind.
* You will need to spend time initially training your plats to climb
* If you are planning to grow heavy fruit and vegetables on trellis you will need to check that they are being fully supported on a regular basis.
* Water regularly. Climbing plants require more water due to this kind of growing technique enabling faster water absorption.

Top climbing plant for 2010

Lophospermum - Begin by planting seeds in 7.5-10cm pots under cover in pots and plant out in late May. I would advise using a planter with trellis which will allows the new shoots to twine around the structure and grow vertically. Throughout summer you will be rewarded with trumpet shaped flowers.

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Jason's Pre-Garden 2010 Part 3: Almost There

Almost fully prepped. The beds are ready, I have my drip irrigation to install, and now it is just a waiting game on when the last frost will be here. The 10 day forecast doesn't call for any evening temps below 40 degrees so I'm hoping I can plant right at the beginning of April!

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Aerogarden Cherry Tomatoes - Day 54

Update...Day 54. All is good except there is some mold growing on the plugs of the plants. Just hoping I can get some tomatoes before/if it kills thems. Music: "Galaxy Bounce" by Chemical Brothers.

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Tomatoes: Determinant vs. Indeterminant

vegetablegardeningideas.com Perhaps you've been to the nursery or garden center and have been picking out your tomato plants and noticed that some tomato plants are marked "determinant" and others are marked "indeterminate." A determinant plant is sometimes smaller and bares all its fruit at once and then it's done for the season. An Indeterminate plant continues to grow and bear fruit throughout the season, as long as the temperature is okay. What type of plant you might like is up to you. For example, determinant plants work quite well for container growing, or in smaller tomatoes. There are other reasons as well, which we explain to you in this video. Hope this helps! For more great gardening and vegetable growing tips, visit us on the web at the address listed at the top of this video description. Thank you!

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Kelly's Upside Down Vegetable Garden 02

This is a June 2, 2009 update of my upside down garden. I have a few additions this week. First of all, I built a trellis for my cucumbers. I had so many of them that I had to find places to grow them. Also I put a few cucumbers in an upside down bucket. At least I will be able to tell which way will be a better way to grow them. I also thinned out all the varieties of the squash I am growing so that they will do better and have space to grow. All the tomato plants are doing quite well and I have my first visible tomato so I am pretty happy about that. Personally, I think that tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers and the best things to grow upside down. I decided not to grow the squash that way because of the size of the plant itself not to mention how big the fruit gets. I added strawberries and raspberries this week and am going to put in blackberries in next week. I hope everyone is doing well with their gardening this year so far. I know I am having a good time. It is pretty much consuming my life at the moment. If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please email me or post them. Also, if you subscribe to my video series, I will do the same for you. I am always looking for ideas to improve my garden and I know there are some good ones out there. Until next time, take care and happy gardening. Kelly

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How To Build Artificial Rock - The Methods The Professionals Use

Mixing concrete - the most important step in artificial rock making

Mixing concrete is no different than baking a cake. If you do not put the right ingredients into the mix it will not turn out properly. In fact, mixing and curing a batch of concrete is virtually identical to mixing and baking a cake. Except that the concrete bakes at room temperature!

There are many different concrete mixes and various additives and substitutions for ingredients. It is true that lightweight concrete can be created by adding vermiculite, perlite, peat moss or saw dust in place or partially in place of sand. The short answer is - yes you can do this with varying degrees of success and with more than a little trail and error. The concrete mix that is detailed below is specifically designed for two reasons:

1) Maximum strength

2) Maximum sculptability

This mix is engineered to produce a final concrete strength of 50-75 mPa. This is STRONG in fact this is VERY STRONG concrete. This will produce concrete that is far stronger than sidewalks and curbs, even stronger than swimming pool concrete and most concrete found in high rise construction.

It is important to note that you can make concrete batches of all sizes using the simple principal that the ingredients are all proportional to one another. For example the ratio of sand to cement is generally 3:1 or three parts sand to every one part cement. All other measurements in the mix will be based on the 'one part' cement that you are using. For this example the measurements are based on a standard 40kg bag of type ten portland cement being equal to one standard five gallon bucket.

respirator is a MUST as silica, concrete dust and fiberglass are dangerous to breathe!

Dry Ingredients:

-One bag type 10 portland cement

-Three buckets fine, clean washed sand

-One and 1/4 buckets un-densified silica fume

-1/4 bucket Fly Ash -Small handful of glass fibers (like a pinch of salt - not precise, but a small amount)

Wet ingredients:

-800ml of poly-plex or liquid latex (Liquid acrylic can be substituted where liquid latex is not available)

-300ml liquid water reducer

-Water**

NOTE: The liquid additives can be omitted and replaced with water with acceptable results. The water reducer and liquid latex are needed only where maximum strength and workability is essential.

**In order to make the concrete strong and workable the amount of water is critical and can change depending on a number of given criteria. For example, if the sand you are using is slightly damp you would likely need HALF the amount of water than if your sand was bone dry. If it is hot outside you may find yourself needing more water than on a cool day. Adding the correct amount of water takes practice.

Mixing the concrete ingredients is the most important stage

You can mix concrete in a mixer, a bucket or on a piece of plywood with a square head shovel. This depends on the amount of concrete you need to mix. With all methods A thoroughly mixed, well proportioned cement mix is the secret to easily workable concrete. If you are a beginner you should probably mix the concrete much longer than you would otherwise think- and it can be hard work. The best concrete mix in an entire day of pouring concrete is the one that spins in the mixer throughout a long lunch break!

Mix all dry ingredients thoroughly before getting ready to add water. You will add water in SMALL quantities mixing thoroughly between adding more. You will find that the small amounts of water that you add will get immediately absorbed by the overly dry mix and you will feel compelled to add a big splash of water. DO NOT DO THIS!

The concrete will readily absorb water to a certain point of saturation, after which seemingly a thimbleful more will reduce your fine sculpting concrete to a watery mess. Concrete that has been over watered is completely compromised in terms of strength. You may be able to add ingredients or wait a while to get some sort of useable substance but this seriously weakens the end result in an undetectable fashion to the naked eye.

Have patience with adding water and you can quickly find yourself becoming more familiar with the total amount needed on any given day. If you take the time to measure how much water you need in a mix, the next time you make it you can immediately use half the anticipated amount of water required, and add the second half very slowly to ensure that you do not over water.

Making perfect concrete mixes takes patience and practice

What you are going for with this mix is a relatively firm (not too watery) end result. The concrete should be able to be formed into a ball, but still squished between your fingers without breaking off into clumps. Instead it should almost ooze through your fingers. If you dropped a fist sized ball of concrete onto the ground from the height of your knees you should end up with an almost flat circle of concrete, but not totally flat. Pictures of the desired consistency are included in the sculpting section.

Try taking your point trowel and smoothing out the concrete like spreading icing on a cake. You should be able to get a smooth glossy-like finish by working it back and forth gently. If the concrete just spreads out to nothingness under the gentle weight of your trowel you have too much water. If the concrete tends to break apart instead of spreading smoothly you likely need just a touch more water. A little goes a LONG way at this point.

Once the concrete is mixed - pay attention to the ticking clock

You will have a few hours in most cases to work the concrete into its desired shape before it cures too much to be worked further. Direct sunlight and hot dry weather can considerably increase the curing rate of concrete so it is always better to err on the side of caution with concrete drying times as you certainly do not want a batch of concrete drying in the mixer before you can get to it. This goes for tools as well. Always keep your tools clean or you will quickly find all of your tools rendered useless by dried concrete.

You can work the concrete for a few hours, misting with water if it looks like it is drying too fast (cracking in direct sunlight). After the initial curing begins and the concrete begins to stiffen you should stop working the concrete as further disturbing will weaken the strength of the final product.

Be prepared in case you can not finish your project in a single session

If you find that you are not able to complete the project in one shot, be sure to leave your concrete work finished in an inconspicuous spot. You will always be able to see the joint between where new concrete was added to cured concrete and in most cases this will cause a weak link in the overall structure called a cold joint.

If you need to add new concrete to old concrete you must complete an additional step to ensure that the two sides bond together. You need to make a watery mix of cement, water and concrete adhesive called slurry.

Making slurry for bonding old concrete to new concrete

Prepare your new (regular) mix of concrete, cover and leave in a cool shaded place. Now you are going to make another very small mix, just enough to cover the joint where new concrete and old concrete will overlap.

Mix only water and cement powder until you have something resembling soft butter. Then add a generous dollop of glue to the mix and mix further. This soft butter looking mixture (slurry) must be applied along the entire joint where you wish to add new concrete while the slurry is still wet.

Right before you apply the slurry mix you must spray down the existing concrete piece with water so that it is thoroughly wet.

NOTE- This slurry mix dries FAST. On a hot day the slurry can cure in a matter of minutes so do not waste any time in applying the slurry to the cold joint and getting your fresh waiting concrete mix spread over top.

There are some products as well that can be purchased that will perform the job of this slurry mix. Generally these mixes are designed to set fast for joining surfaces and fixing active leaks. There are concrete mix additives that can cure in 30 seconds or even underwater to patch a leak. Many times dealing with these products you will find yourself distracted for a moment only to find your trowel firmly embedded in the solidified bucket of mixed concrete moments later. The home made slurry mix described above is much more forgiving than these commercial products and produces reliable results just the same.

Concrete curing times

Concrete takes almost a full month to reach maximum strength. All too often with beginners the anticipation gets the better of you and you end up destroying or damaging your creation by moving or working the concrete too soon after sculpting. I recommend waiting a minimum of 3 full days to begin working the concrete and a full 14 days before attempting to lift or move. Be sure to keep the concrete moist with water at least 2-3 times per day for the initial 3 days.

Now that you have a better understanding of how to make concrete that is great for sculpting artificial rocks, we can take a look at how you are going to sculpt it to look exactly like real stone.

The artificial rock E-book is available in full for free at http://www.ArtificialRock.ca

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5 Tips For Beginner Vegetable Gardeners

There's something special about eating home-grown vegetables from the garden. Fresh-picked peas are a revelation-store-bought ones never tasted as sweet-and who can resist juicy, garden-ripe tomatoes still warm from the sun?

If you are new to vegetable gardening, here are five tips to get you started:

Grow only veggies you like to eat. Home-grown veggies that are noticeably tastier and cheaper include green and yellow beans, broccoli, carrots, green onions, peas (both shelling and snow types), peppers, spinach, tomatoes, summer squash and zucchini.
Plant the stuff you have to shell out bigger bucks for at the supermarket-specialty greens like arugula or mesclun salad mixes, or asparagus. In fact, asparagus is one of the few perennial vegetables. For a Saturday afternoon spent planting your patch, you can harvest for 12 to 15 years.
Grow what's not so readily available, for example, heirloom tomatoes such as Brandywine. Many varieties available to home gardeners aren't found in stores, because produce intended for shipping is bred for durability and shelf life-taste comes a distant second.
Choose a level, well-drained spot that gets at least eight hours of full sun each day, and make sure it's close to a water source. The closer to the house, the easier the plants are to tend.
Start small. Novice gardeners often overplant and become overwhelmed. You don't even need a separate vegetable patch to begin with. Try tucking a tomato plant or two into your annuals. Each tomato plant will need a space that's 3-feet square. You can also plant basil, parsley, thyme, and chives into a half-barrel planter near the kitchen door. These kitchen herbs also make great edging plants for your veggie patch.

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The 21st Century Make-Over of Your Gardens

The avaunt-garden in the perceptions of the common man has brought in a revolution which aims at breaking free from the bonds of popularly accepted beliefs of heritage and culture and gives a new meaning to the evolving times. The advent of technology has proved to be a blessing in disguise where on one side it works in the interest of human beings on the other hand it aids the misdoings of the malicious elements in the society.

As the day progress the intensity to work or your will power faces various obstacles of vexation, pressure and competition and therefore decreases the magnitude to work. The peace tranquility of your home is the only place in the world which can fill in life once more in your tired and fatigued body cells. Therefore it is imperative that you are enchanted by your house and its surroundings which attract you the whole day and impart that much desired comfort to your inner being.

The various segments of your dwelling have their own importance and play different roles in your life. The interiors which includes the living room, the dinning room, your study, the bedrooms etc harmonizes with the heterogeneous phases of your daily routines and incorporate those mesmerizing moments of love in their walls and settings. The fragrances of life percolate in the nostrils of the inmates and give them a provocation to strife harder and harder to achieve their goals so that the aroma spreads further. The outdoor likewise play a very significant role.

The garden or the lawns, the backyard etc also capture your youth and happy moments of motherhood and fatherhood and later when your children turn adults and leave their nest, you can still hear their laughter in these places where they have spend their entire childhood.

To support those plants in your garden which also grow with your children you can use a planter box which adds a stylish focal point to any deck, terrace or garden. The planter features furniture-style joinery & strong lattice panels backed by forest green metal containing a plastic liner that holds the soil and plants and do not hamper their growth.

Besides this to add that sophisticated elegant look to your garden you can also use pergolas which not only supports the climbers and other ornamental plants but also give the stylish and classy garden look of England gardens which actually started popularizing the trend of use pergolas.

The garden are often venues for small family evening functions or ceremonies and therefore need that look of a venue where your guest feel comfortable and relaxed in the same way when they attend any indoor functions or ceremonies.

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Topsy Turvy Tomato

The easiest and hassle-free way to grow tomatoes budurl.com

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Growing Tomato Plants Tips

Wondering how to nurture a healthy plant to produce succulent tomatoes? Here are a few but successfully tested tips to give you the healthiest harvest of tomatoes to give you that lip-smacking salad!!

Firstly, tomatoes love heat! So, preheat the soil in your garden by placing a black or red plastic cover over the area intended for sowing, for a couple of weeks. This provides extra degrees of warmth to the area where the tomatoes are to be grown. Secondly, make sure the tomato plant is sown deep in the soil.

Seedlings are typically planted after they have developed about six leaves. Plant the seedlings deep enough so that only the top four leaves are showing. This also helps the tomato plant to create a stronger root system. The seedlings can also be sown sideways within a shallow trench. Care should be taken while inserting a stake into the soil, for the tomato plant to lean on while growing, so that it does not pierce the root system. Following these steps will definitely yield a great harvest.

Maintaining the plant requires a lot of attention from the growers. Pruning the suckers that develop in the joint of two branches of the plant essential as they suck the energy from the plant since they do not bear fruit. Leaves should also be pruned, although not too many, to allow sunlight to reach the ripening fruit. It should be noted that the leaves are the "kitchens" of the plant where, by the process photosynthesis, food in the form of sugars are prepared to provide the plant's much needed sustenance. The tomato plants need to be watered regularly and enough to allow water to seep deep into the soil. Missing a few days of watering and trying to make up for it later leads to the rotting and cracking of the blossoms. However once the fruit begins to ripen, less watering should be done to allow the sugars in the plant to become concentrated. Stress and wilting of the plant will result in drooping of the blossoms and fruits if too much water is withheld

These well proven suggestions have been heeded by many tomato plant growers which have helped to support the health of the tomato plants and have led to an increase in the quantity and quality of tomatoes.

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Topsy Turvy vs Homemade (Week 2)

This week shows a bit of a difference between the growth of the plants. Take a look.

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Jason's Pre-Garden 2010 Part 4

So just showing some of the plants I have so far. Not a whole lot different from last week. I'm just waiting to plant outside.

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Transplant Tomato Seedlings - How and When?

The best time to transplant tomato seedlings from a pot to your garden is when they are between 5 and 8 weeks old, and well after the last frost in your area. Read the following tips to ensure successful transplantation.

Make sure your tomato plants are a garden - not greenhouse - variety.
Leave your seedlings out in the sunlight for a few hours each day up to two weeks before transplanting. Leave them out at night during the second week if the temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In this way, the plants will acclimatize to being outside and so be hardier when they are transplanted.
Preheat the soil in your garden before you transplant tomato seedlings by laying black plastic over it for a couple of weeks. Tomato plants love heat.
Plant seedlings deeper than they were planted in their pots. Plant so that just a few top leaves are above the surface of the soil by digging a deep hole (twice as wide as the root ball) or a horizontal trench (the plant will straighten up and grow towards the sun even if you plant it flat). This encourages a more extensive root structure, as roots can form all along the stem.
Sprinkle manure around holes and add some kelp meal before planting.
Leave two to three feet of space between plants.
Pat down soil firmly after planting, and water well.
Do not mulch too early. Mulching is good because it helps the soil retain moisture, but it also keeps the soil cooler than it would otherwise be.
Remove the leaves from the bottom one foot of a plant when it reaches 3 feet tall. This helps to minimize the risk of fungal infection.

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Tomato Growing - Proper Nutrition For Huge Tomato Plants

Every tomato grower has a "secret recipe" for tomato growing success. An integral part of high tomato yield is proper plant nutrition. Plants need food, too! Giving a plant the right food at the right time will not only increase fruit yield, it will also help prevent damage from diseases and pests.

Plant Nutrients

Plants do not eat hamburgers and French fries, but they do still need "nutrients." Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the three nutrients most commonly fed to plants. Most fertilizers are a combination of the three. When reading a fertilizer package, a three number series such as 3-0-3, or 15-10-5, presents the ratio of all three nutrients in the fertilizer. Other nutrients and minerals, in smaller amounts, help tomato plants grow robustly and healthily. Plants get nutrients from the soil in which they are planted, so soil preparation is integral to providing plant nutrients in proper amounts.

To determine which nutrients your garden soil needs to promote healthy plant growth, prepare a soil sample and send it to your local cooperative extension office for analysis. The soil sample will allow you to properly prepare the garden soil and add just enough of each lacking nutrient to grow healthy plants. Another important test is the soil pH. Soil pH affects the way plants are able to take in nutrients. If your soil is too high or too low, you will want to amend the pH by adding mulch (to increase acidity) or lime (to increase alkalinity.)

When to Add Nutrients Tomato plants need nutrients at differing amounts at various stages of growth. After receiving soil test results and before planting tomatoes, work a general fertilizer into the soil. Ratios of 5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are good to start. The soil test results will tell you if you are seriously lacking one nutrient or another.

Once the plant begins growing, different ratios of nutrients promote best growth. Once the plant starts flowering, it needs a higher ratio of potassium.

Soil Composition for Plant Nutrition

Adding fertilizer is only one step to providing plants with proper nutrients and increasing crop yield. Soil composition and structure directly affects tomato plant health. Tomato plants thrive by growing roots deep into the soil. Hard clay soils must be broken and amended with compost to promote healthy root growth. Overly sandy soils need addition of organic matter in order to hold water and nutrients.

Compost for High Fruit Yield

Organic matter is an essential component of soil. Adding proper organic matter will greatly improve soil health, while adding improper organic matter is detrimental to soil. Organic matter can be added by top dressing or double digging. Top dressing with organic works exactly as it sounds-you add organic matter to the top of the soil, almost like a mulch. Double-digging requires digging and removing soil, mixing the organic matter into the soil, and replacing the newly combined soil.

Great organic matters are already composted, or broken down. As wood chips, leaves and other compost breaks down, it uses nitrogen. It is important to add composted organic matter rather than fresh, as fresh matter will remove essential nutrients from the soil. If fresh organic matter is all that is available, be sure to add nitrogen along with the organic matter.

Soil composition is one key to tomato growing success. Structure, pH, and nutrient availability all contribute to plant health. For more detailed information on soil health and how to manage nutrition (including diagnosing nutrient deficiencies), consult a comprehensive tomato growing reference such as How to Grow Tasty Juicy Tomatoes.

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How to Care For Your Plants

Sunscald is an injury prevalent in the prairie sections of the country. It appears as dead sunken areas of bark on the trunks of trees particularly on the south and southwest sides. Exposed trunks of fruit trees, especially apple and pear, and some ornamental trees such as the mountain ash, suffer from this condition. Apparently the injury occurs in late winter. Day temperatures above the freezing point followed by below-freezing nights cause damage to the wood on the exposed side of the tree. Most damage occurs on the southwest side of the trunk.

This kind of damage can be lessened if young trees are trained so they branch low to the ground. Growing mountain ash in a clump form instead of to a single trunk aids in lessening sunscald injury. Growing shrubs near the base of susceptible trees assists in protecting tender bark. Painting trunks with white paint is another "old timers" method followed.

Rodents can do considerable harm to ornamental trees and shrubs during winter months. Lawns are also scarred by the burrowing activities of these animals. Field mice migrate into a cultivated area especially if their regular feeding areas become covered with heavy snows. As their regular source of food is cut off, they build runways to favorite trees and shrubs and feed on the soft bark of these plants near ground level.

Protect from Animals

Rabbits often completely girdle trees and shrubs and in that way, kill them. Rabbits feed at snow level, so if the snow is drifted high, the feeding will occur above the ground level of the plants. Just like having fungicides to control pests, a number of repellents on the market are effective in the control of this pest. Maybe you prefer the old fashioned cure -the shotgun. In a deer area these animals may become troublesome because they feed on young tender growth of many kinds of deciduous shrubs and trees. One of the plants especially relished by deer is the native Red Osier Dogwood.

Adequate fencing provides the best solution for preventing such damage. It is an expensive method, but is effective. Wrapping trunks of valuable fruit trees with coarse screening is another way to prevent girdling by rodents. These coverings must reach high enough to take care of changes in snow level during the winter. If the snow drifts above the protective covering, better get out the shotgun (just kidding)!

Snow is one of nature's important mulches, since it protects tender perennial plants over the cold winter months of the north. The snow acts as an insulation, protecting plants from extreme changes in temperature which happen so often in this section of the country. The greatest danger is ice formation at ground level. If this happens, much of the insulating value of the snow is lost. Providing good sub-surface, and especially good surface drainage, is one way of reducing ice formation at the base of perennial plants.

Keep from Losing Snow

When we witness a cold, blizzardy day in January, we can realize the importance of not cutting down the stalks and tops of perennial plants such as peony or delphinium. A perennial border cleaned bare of its plant growth in the fall, often loses its protective snow cover when the first blizzard of winter strikes. A good shrub border, hedge or fence placed adjacent to the perennials serves much the same purpose, to keep the snow from blowing off.

Long winter months in this area make us appreciate plant materials that give color to our landscape setting at this time of year. Evergreens are especially suitable for this purpose. We should be reminded not to plant all our small evergreens around the foundation of the house. Some evergreens placed elsewhere in the yard aid in brightening the winter scene as viewed from our windows. The colorful bark of red and yellow twigged native dogwoods and willows will brighten the winter landscape picture. Think, too, of using berried shrubs and trees such as viburnums, flowering crabapples, mountain ash and haws. Many such plants offer food for our visiting winter birds.

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hangingtomato

Blatant Subliminalism in the Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter commercial.

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14 Tips to Grow Happy Tomato Plants

Just dropping in for a quick list of successful tomato tips.

DETERMINATE tomato plants produce a heavier yield at one time and are best for canning. INDETERMINATE tomatoes bear fruit throughout the summer and tend to sprawl. Best for continual eating enjoyment. Transplant tomatoes when all danger of frost is past. Put in well drained soil, and mix in some humus or compost if needed. Putting plastic jugs over the plants creates a greenhouse effect and can help them grow faster. Just keep an eye on daytime temperatures. Transplant on a cool evening to prevent wilt and transplant shock. Space plants two feet apart in rows three feet apart. Snip off bottom leaves and plant DEEP. Leave about 4-6 inches of crown above the ground with the leaves on. The plant shoots roots from the entire stem underground, developing a better system. "Mud in" your new tomatoes. Dig the hole three times larger than the root ball, place the plant in, and fill halfway up with water. Then carefully pack dirt around the plant. Always "side dress" your new tomatoes. Make a ring around the plant about one foot away, sprinkle 10-10-10 garden fertilizer in the ring, and water well. READ THE DIRECTIONS on all fertilizers so you don't burn your plants. Keep the plants watered according to weather conditions. Don't overwater, as this results in poor aeration and stem rot. Mulch if desired. Keep the area weed free, but don't hoe too close to the plant. This breaks off the roots that supply water to the fruit. Before they start setting fruit, dust the plants about every ten days with a good combination insecticide and fungicide. Do this before they show symptoms, because it's difficult to stop blight once it's started. If blight does infest your plants, DO NOT plant tomatoes in the same area the next year. Two common problems with tomato plants are "leaf roll" and "white shoulders." Leaf roll is caused by too much fertilizer or herbicide spray. White shoulders appear on the tomatoes and are caused by extremely high temperatures. Plants may be allowed to sprawl over the ground, but they produce better fruit if tied to stakes at least four feet tall. All indeterminate plants should be staked. Before first frost, pull up your tomatoes and hang them upside down in a protected place. Many of the green tomatoes will ripen. Keep dry or mold will occur.

These tips will keep your tomato plants happy, and you happy, all summer long.

Use your summer bounty to its best advantage by canning plain tomatoes and seasoning them when you actually cook them in the winter. Try the Savory Herb and Spice Adventure which features Oregano, Basil, Rosemary, Fennel, Caraway and Tarragon, or choose the Beyond Basil Herb and Spice Adventure which features Thyme, Sage, Dill, Marjoram, Rosemary, and Bay. If you reap more than you thought you would, try both of these culinary adventures!

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Earth Box Garden - Does the Earth Box Planter Work?

The Earth Box garden system has been around since 2001. It is a container gardening system, primarily targeting vegetable container gardens. Let's take a look at its features.

Size: It holds about 2 cubic feet of soil. This is plenty of room for a decent number of vegetable plants. For example, with that much room you could grow two tomato plants, or 8 medium size plants like pepper plants, broccoli, or cabbage. For smaller plants like peas or beans you could grow 16 plants in one container. Other commonly planted vegetables include artichokes, strawberries, and squash. It works great as an herb garden, and obviously could be used as a flower container as well. The size is perfect for a patio or balcony.

Self Watering: The system has a built in reservoir for holding the water for the garden. With this system it is supposed to be self watering, as long as you keep the watering reservoir of the Earth Box topped off.

Mobile: There is an optional caster set for this garden container. That is a good idea, because with 2 cubic feet of soil, and the water in the reservoir the planter can get quite heavy, and if you need to move it the weight would be a problem without some sort of wheels. This allows you to easily put it in a place where it can get the required six to eight hours of sunlight every day.

Staking System: Since the Earth Box is marketed as a vegetable growing system, some of the most popular types of garden plants like tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers and other vines will need some type of staking system. There is an optional staking system that you can buy that maintains the stability of the system, since staking directly into the container itself would make it prone to tipping over.

Weed control: The Earth Box system includes a soil cover that is intended to help maintain moisture while keeping weeds down and soil born pests at bay.

There are a few more things about watering and fertilization you need to know to make the Earth Box as productive as possible...

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Tomato Planter - Easy to Use - Minimal Space and Minimal Maintenance

Growing tomatoes has just got easier and you don't even have to have a lot of space in your garden, on your balcony or in your kitchen. Yes, you can even grow your tomatoes in your kitchen with the latest innovation in tomato growing called the Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter.

What makes this device so amazing is that you don't need a lot of soil, and you don't have to have a lot of space. They also work extremely well for other vegetable growing and herbs. The concept is based on tomatoes growing just as well downwards as they would normally do upwards. You could be eating your own sweet and tasty home grown tomatoes within just a very short space of time.

How Do They Work?

So how can you grow veggies indoors without making a complete mess of your kitchen floor? The Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter has a controlled watering system that makes sure that your tomato only gets as much water as it needs, so that no matter how experienced or inexperienced you are at growing tomatoes, you won't have to worry about under or over watering them. The water system also keeps you from having to worry about dripping water and damaging your kitchen floor.

Having the right amount of water will ensure that your tomato plants give the very best yield. If you overwater, they tend to produce tasteless tomatoes and under-watering can result in no tomatoes at all. The upside down tomato planter, as it is sometimes called, has been made with a foam base which stores the water and gradually feeds the roots of the plant.

How Much Maintenance Do They Need?

Your tomato planter is extremely low maintenance producing tomatoes while you do better things. You don't have to stop at growing just tomatoes. There are various designs in tomato planters for peppers and herbs and other great vegetables. So even if you don't have a good track record in the garden, you can still enjoy tasty, wholesome, fresh vegetables at home without any fuss.

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Compost, Part 2 - Where Do I Put All This Stuff?

You have a number of choices, here. A compost bin, box, tumbler, trench or heap - all will work, its a matter of personal preference. Let us look.

Compost Bin. This can be made out of just about anything; discarded 44gal. drums are good, provided they are clean of petro-chemicals; plastic cherry-bins are ideal. For the most part, it needs to be big enough that you could climb into it. Cut off the top and bottom - keep one of these for the lid. Make a number of 'breathing-holes' around the shell - these can be either cut or drilled through. A plastic rubbish bin will do. Once again, cut off the bottom, make holes in the side - then turn it upside-down, so that the wider opening sits on the ground. The idea of no bottom, is to allow the insects, worms and micro-organisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost.

Compost Box. This can be made out of anything you have to hand, be it old pallets, bricks, or spare lumber. Bales of hay work quite well - the hay ultimately becoming compost itself.

Plastic Composters. There are a number of plastic composters available, stand alone units and tumblers. These are made of a special grade plastic that 'breathes'. A tumbler, is a compost bin, turned on its side; and with the aid of a crank handle, is turned a quarter turn every couple of weeks or so - effectively mixing the compost for you. The is one draw-back with these, though - the tendency to turn it too often, or really crank-it-up; then you end up with this glutinous ball, not much good for anything.

Trenching. This is quite an old-fashioned way of composting, but certainly worth discussing. A trench is dug, about double spade-width, the soil left on the side of the trench. All your waste is placed at the start of the trench, without spreading it out - the soil left on the side, is then back-filled over the material you have just placed in there. Then, the next-time you have more material, it is placed at what is now the start of the trench; and back-filled again. When you have run out of trench - start a new one. This is actually a good way to revitalize vegetable gardens, ordinarily made in bed-rows. An entire row is dug out and becomes the trench, filled with organic material, back-filled; and left to its own devices for about 6 months - then turned over and made ready for planting again.

Compost Heaps. A compost heap, is just that - a heap of compost material. However, the whole process will work much better, if it is managed a bit. By this I mean 'caging' it. Using 4 to 6 stakes or pickets hammered into the ground, in a vague circle; chicken-wire, sparrow-wire, or arc-mesh is then formed around them, creating an open-ended cage. Large sheets of cardboard can be used; and will eventually decompose, too. Black sheet plastic can also be used as a surround, but it tends to deteriorate and tear, fairly quickly - then you have to get rid of it some way. Back to the dump, oh dear.

The basic idea of all these designs can be seen here.

Worm Farms. An alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermi-composting or worm-farms. These use a special kind of worm to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material from their casts, or leavings; and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If you have a greenhouse, or have a lot of houseplants then a worm-farm may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste. These can be constructed by the home gardener, or store bought. There are some marvelous small, neat units quite suitable for people living in apartments,too.

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Earth Box Garden - Does the Earth Box Planter Work?

The Earth Box garden system has been around since 2001. It is a container gardening system, primarily targeting vegetable container gardens. Let's take a look at its features.

Size: It holds about 2 cubic feet of soil. This is plenty of room for a decent number of vegetable plants. For example, with that much room you could grow two tomato plants, or 8 medium size plants like pepper plants, broccoli, or cabbage. For smaller plants like peas or beans you could grow 16 plants in one container. Other commonly planted vegetables include artichokes, strawberries, and squash. It works great as an herb garden, and obviously could be used as a flower container as well. The size is perfect for a patio or balcony.

Self Watering: The system has a built in reservoir for holding the water for the garden. With this system it is supposed to be self watering, as long as you keep the watering reservoir of the Earth Box topped off.

Mobile: There is an optional caster set for this garden container. That is a good idea, because with 2 cubic feet of soil, and the water in the reservoir the planter can get quite heavy, and if you need to move it the weight would be a problem without some sort of wheels. This allows you to easily put it in a place where it can get the required six to eight hours of sunlight every day.

Staking System: Since the Earth Box is marketed as a vegetable growing system, some of the most popular types of garden plants like tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers and other vines will need some type of staking system. There is an optional staking system that you can buy that maintains the stability of the system, since staking directly into the container itself would make it prone to tipping over.

Weed control: The Earth Box system includes a soil cover that is intended to help maintain moisture while keeping weeds down and soil born pests at bay.

There are a few more things about watering and fertilization you need to know to make the Earth Box as productive as possible...

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Final Review for the Topsy Turvy for the 2009 Season...

I give my final review and recommendations for better results using the Topsy Turvy...

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Upside Down and Topsy Turvy Tomatoes - Grow Tomatoes Hanging Upside Down Without A Garden

Tomatoes are a popular choice with the home gardener. Almost everyone loves the idea of freshly picked tomatoes to use as part of their summer diet. The biggest obstacle to growing tomatoes is the space required. For those trying to grow tomatoes on their patio or balcony, using a container to grow tomatoes still takes up valuable space, and you are usually restricted to using some of the smaller varieties of tomatoes, like the ever popular Patio tomato. These varieties have small vines and don't need a lot of staking, but usually don't produce the large juicy tomatoes that we all dream of picking.

A recently popular alternative to container growing tomatoes is to use a hanging tomato planter. They range from simple bags from under $15 that hold a single plant, to a free standing garden that holds 4 plants and assorted herbs and radishes as well. The idea is simple enough, you start a tomato plant growing in the container, either by transplanting a tomato plant into it or germinating the seeds in the planter while it's not upside down. You then hang the planter up on some hook, taking care to put it high enough that the variety you have chosen will have enough room to grow.

Advantages of Hanging Tomato Planters:

These advantages include:

No need to stake your tomato plants
Few problems with slugs and other soil based pests
Soil borne disease is significantly reduced because you can use fresh potting soil
Weeds are almost no problem, especially if you choose a soil-less mix
Air movement around the plants is improved, so you get good pollination, and few problems with rot

But if you choose to use an upside down hanging tomato planter for your patio or balcony, there are a few things you need will need to do differently...

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My garden plants part 2 (2009)

Annotations Show what cultivare are planted. Year 2009 Be sure to see part 1 and any other future additions.

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Upside down tomato planter www.pennystomatoes.com

Make your own upside down tomato planters. Free with stuff from garage and shed. www.pennystomatoes.com

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How to plant a Tomato Hanging Basket

Gardening Directs own guide to planting out a Tomato hanging basket kit an easy route to your own tasty and nutritious harvest of tomatoes directly on your doorstep. We show you step by step just how easy it is to prepare and plant out. Its worth it, as theres nothing like the taste of tomatoes which have ripened on the vine!

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Topsy Turvy Tomato Tree Infomercial

Topsy Turvy Tomato Tree www.asseenontvhq.com Everybody loves fresh tomatoes. But do you have the time, patience, and space to grow them? Made of greenhouse grade material, the 5 Foot Grow-Stand is made of Powder-Coated Steel. You can grow three different plants in the same planter. Imagine growing tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplant at the same time. With this space saving planter, you can grow over 200 tomatoes on your balcony, deck or patio. You only need 4 square-feet of space. And as a special bonus, youll receive a Topsy Turvy® Strawberry Planter FREE

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earthbox Intro - Part 1

Part 1 of a 3 part series introducing the earthbox Planter. www.herringtoncatalog.com

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We Can Do It! Building a Raised-bed Garden

Chicago Botanic Garden President Sophia Siskel and Manager of School and Community Gardening, Eliza Fournier, show novice gardeners and parents interested in having a vegetable garden how to make a raised-bed garden as a two-hour weekend project.

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9

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Löwchen tomato thief !

Löwchen puppy slyley taking tomatoes from our planter! For some time we noticed that tomatoes seemed to be vanishing. This video catches thief red-handed!

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Winterberry Holly 'Red Sprite'

Ilex verticillata, commonly known as Winterberry Holly, is one of Carroll Gardens' most popular shrubs. Native to North America, Ilex verticillata is a deciduous shrub that loses it's shiny deep green leaves each winter, right after they turn orange and then yellow. The female varieties, when pollinated by a male, produce gorgeous red fruit that will remain on the branches long after the leaves have fallen, well into winter (unless eaten by birds). This week we are featuring the most compact Ilex verticillata - 'Red Sprite,' maturing at about half the size of other winterberry hollies.

'Red Sprite' is a neat compact rounded shrub that matures to an average height and width of only 3-4 feet - ideal for foundation planting or in the smaller garden. This female variety produces unusually large red berries, reaching close to 1/2 inch in diameter. Like all winterberry hollies, the stems can also be cut and kept in a vase with no water for months.

In order to set fruit, 'Red Sprite' needs a male Ilex verticillata. We recommend 'Apollo' because it blooms as the same time as 'Red Sprite.' One male is sufficient to pollinate 4 females. Apollo will grow somewhat faster and taller than 'Red Sprite'. If necessary, it can be cut back in spring for consistency with 'Red Sprite.'

Planting and Care

Ilex verticillata 'Red Sprite' will thrive in full sun, but will also tolerate partial shade. 'Red Sprite' prefers a slightly acid soil that is moist, but does just fine in normally moist soil. For best results pruning should be done in early spring just before the new growth begins.

Plant in spring to early fall. Prefers full sun to part shade. Plant 3-4 feet apart. Water regularly until established. Fertilize with Holly-Tone in the spring and fall.

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Grow Tomatoes in Pots - Extend Your Growing Season

Growing tomatoes in pots allows you to put your garden almost anywhere that has enough sunlight. But it brings with it the added advantage of mobility for your garden. In addition, you can put your garden in spots that just are not feasible most of the time. But there are a few concerns that are unique to growing tomatoes in pots that require a little more up front planning. Keep these in mind and your will be treated to a bumper crop.

Some key factors to successful growing in pots include:

The Pot or Container:

A standard clay pot that has a diameter of 12 inches or more is recommended for tomatoes. Your pot should be drained well, usually with drainage holes in the bottom. Good drainage is needed to avoid rot. If you want something a little less traditional, try using a half whiskey barrels or a bushel baskets to give a different look.

The Right Tomato Variety:

Many types of tomato can be grown in a pot, but it's important that the variety fits the growing environment you've created. If you are in a warmer part of the country, try growing smaller varieties like cherry tomatoes since they will set fruit and not drop blossoms at higher temperatures. Sweet 100 is a real favorite small tomato variety.

Where to Get Seedlings:

The lazy man's way to start the plants it to just buy them from the the local home improvement story or nursery. One problem with buying at national chains is that they often do a poor job of selecting varieties that are suited for the local climate. If you can't find a a variety that you want, you may have to start seedlings yourself. Using peat pellets or pots makes this much simpler.

Potting Soil:

When using a pot you can easily tailor the soil to your needs. The key starting point for good soil is lots of organic matter, which will improve drainage. A soil mix that is not difficult to mix is one part each of potting soil, sphagnum peat moss, perlite and compost. Tomatoes are fairly heavy feeders, to plan on using some type of fertilizer. But make sure that it's a tomato fertilizer, as it will have a slightly different formulation than a standard 15-15-15 or the like.

Putting Tomatoes in the Pot

Start by filling the pot most of the way with the potting soil mix. Put the tomato plant in the soil, and fill to the top, covering the tomato plant stem up to the first set of true leaves, which will be deeper than it was planted before. Tomatoes can grow roots from the stem, so this will encourage a healthy root system. Water and add soil to the top of the pot.

Staking Tomato Plants:

Larger tomato plants will need to be staked. It's good to put in the stakes when you plant the tomatoes so you won't damage the root systems adding stakes later. For really tall plants you may want to support the stakes outside the pot, so the pot doesn't become top heavy and tip over, especially outside in the wind.

Water your tomatoes at least weekly, take care to stake them if needed, fertilize as often as the label suggests, and enjoy your tomatoes. Move them into shelter for the first freeze of the fall, and enjoy an extra week or more of fresh garden tomatoes.

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Step by Step Easy Method to Grow Indoor Tomatoes

Step by Step Easy Method to Grow Indoor Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes indoors is not difficult. Anyone can grow tomatoes indoors. All plants require the same basic elements; Soil (medium), light, water and the proper temperature to grow successfully. Of course each plant differs in the type of soil, amount of light, amount of water and the ideal temperatures it requires. I'll focus on growing indoor tomato plants for this article by outlining the basic needs of the tomato plant. Followed by the method I use to grow indoor tomato plants and some useful resources to help you.

What Tomato Plants Like:

• Soil: The soil (medium) can be the usual potting soil mix that contains sphagnum peat, vermiculite and perlite. I like to use peat pellets, for starting my indoor tomato plants, that are available at most gardening stores or from online sources. TIP#1: Want to make your own peat pellets? Check out the article at Mother Earth News. For more in depth information on tomato plants I suggest; Jason's Indoor Guide.To much to cover here. http://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/how-to-grow-tomatoes.html

• Light: Indoor tomato plants need to get 8-12 hours of bright light per day and a southern exposure is ideal during the colder months. Just take care to avoid cold drafts or to hot environments. Also if you don't have good lighting there are many sources for plant lighting available at your gardening store or online. Tomato plants also need a period of sleep (darkness).

• Water: When you are starting your tomato plants from seeds (this is what I do for growing my plants indoors) keep the soil (medium) moist. When you see the seedlings appear you should adjust your watering to 2 or 3 or more times per week depending on your homes temperature. Don't over water and let the soil dry out slightly before watering your plants. Misting is a good thing between watering.

• Temperature: Tomato plants can grow in a wide temperature range, but do much better with warmer temperatures. For example during the day 68 to 80 degrees and at night (when you save energy and turn the temperature down) from about 58 to 68 degrees.

Shopping List:
Note: If you have children, this would be a great project to get them involved.

1. Tomato seeds. I'd suggest that you do not get the ones that produce the very large tomatoes; It's to much extra work supporting them. We want this to be easy, right!

2. Some peat pellets or some potting soil.

3. 1, 2 or 3 of those small seedling pots (the ones you saved, but never knew why) The ones that are 2 to 3 inches tall and 1.5 inches across.

4. Small plastic pot tray, about 3" will do or a small saucer of any kind. Why so small; See #5

5. A large fishbowl vase or a large brandy snifter. You can find these at your local dollar store for, guess what, a buck ($1). This will be your green house. Just make sure the plastic tray fits into the opening of the fishbowl easily. TIP#2: Your plants need to breathe so make sure that you super glue 4 of those caps, from your bottled water, to the rim of the fishbowl/brandy snifter rim. The super glue is only a buck ($1) also. Can you tell I like the dollar store? J Note: If you want to go low tech, a small cardboard box with plastic wrap will do the trick also. Remember to have air flow.

6. Some plant food. Not sure, you may find that at the dollar store. I use Miracle-Gro

7. 1, 2 or 3 of those small gift bags. The ones with the handles and when opened they have a flat bottom. You can match your décor or just use the boring brown ones. They should not be over say 10" tall and 9" wide. More on this later as this is an optional step.

8. 1, 2 or 3 large storage or freezer bags. Note: Don't try using those plastic grocery bags. They are not water tight and when they leak, the bottom of, your designer gift bag breaks open. That splat you just heard was your baby tomato plant hitting the floor. You don't really need to ask how I discovered that, do you? L

Let's get started:

Note: If you have small children, this would be a great project to get them involved. Just stress that they should never handle the fish bowl/brandy snifter or better yet, keep it out of reach.

1. Total time for this project will be about 30 minutes. Longer if you need to go to the dollar store. Put the peat pellets or potting soil in a seedling pot and set them in a saucer of water to let them absorb the water and expand, while you complete other tasks.

2. As I stated above I like to use peat pellets. If you want to use potting soil, that's fine. (If I use potting soil I prefer to use small seedling pots. My thought on this is I like to build a strong root system first and repot later). You will only need to have a few plants unless you want to can tomatoes all year long (if all goes as planned, that is).

3. While the pellets or potting soil are absorbing water you can super glue the bottle caps to the rim of you new fishbowl/brandy snifter. Try to get them straight across from one another to have a solid stable base. You can of course use more if you like.

4. Put the tomato seeds into your potting soil or peat pellets. Plant them at a depth of about ¼". Place the seedling pots with your tomato seeds in the plastic plant tray. I always add enough water to cover the bottom of the seedling pot by 1/8" of an inch. This is the method I use to water the plant from that point on, feeding from the bottom. Adjust the water height to insure the potting medium (pest pellet or potting soil) is moist but not soggy. I put about ¼ of a teaspoon of soluble plant food in a gallon of water and water the plants with this, each time.

5. Place the fishbowl/brandy snifter over the plastic pot tray and set it where it can get sunlight or at least very bright light. In 7 to 15 days you should see small sprouts peaking out. It's important not to over water from this point forward. Rotate the tray regularly to produce a straight (vertical) plant. Allow the plants to grow to a height of about 6" to 7" tall.

6. Oh yeah, did I mention "Do Not Over Water"? Now you can repot the plants into larger containers or for those of you, who were scratching your heads, wondering what the gift bags were to be used for. I found a unique use for them. After putting potting soil into the storage/freezer bags (about 4 loose cups full) I add the tomato plant, covering the base of the plant just slightly higher than was covered by the potting soil or peat pellet. I slip the storage/freezer bag into the gift bag. The flat bottom makes it easy to place on a table. TIP #3: I found an old coat rack at a second hand store for $12 bucks (not the dollar store). It has 6 hooks around the top and I can now hang the gift bags from the hooks on the coat rack. It makes for an interesting display, takes up less space than a table and the plants can receive more light being above other plants or objects. Also I have the ability to support the plant when it begins bearing fruit. Is a tomato a fruit? Yes, I looked it up.

I cannot stress this enough "Do Not Over Water". The plastic storage/freezer bag will retain moisture. Always check the soil before watering. If in doubt simple mist the plant and water it later. TIP#3: Not sure if the soil is dry or moist. Stick your finger in the soil. If the dirt sticks to your finger; It's moist.

With that I am finished. I hope you found some useful information and I do wish you much joy, happiness and success in your life and with your gardening.

MDM

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Hanging Tomato Planters - How Well Do Hanging Tomato Planters Work?

We are always on the hunt to find the best ways to grow tomatoes in our gardens. Few crops enjoy such widespread popularity, which is somewhat ironic given that they were considered poisonous in medieval times. But these days tomato growing is almost a national pastime.

But not everyone has the space or time to start a vegetable garden. So various container growing approaches have come about, but few are as popular as hanging tomato planters. Here's a sampling of why they have become popular.

First, you can use them almost anywhere. Since they hang, you don't even need floor space for them. Put one on a balcony, and many apartment dwellers can find they will grow great tomatoes. Put a hanging planter on your deck or patio, and fresh tomatoes are just outside the kitchen door, handy enough for a quick salad or to slice for a sandwich.

You don't need to weed them nearly as much as a regular garden. They are isolated from the lawn and other weeds, and there is not usually that much surface area to attract weeds in your planter.

Because you can change out the potting soil or growing medium each year, you end up with fewer problems with disease, as disease organisms will often overwinter and come back the next year. Similarly, because the soil is prepared as opposed to just using what's in your yard, you can improve the drainage and the moisture retention by using a custom mix with more organic matter or enhancements like perlite or peat moss.

Since the tomato plants hang down, the whole problem of trying to set up stakes or tomato cages is eliminated, just let them grow down to the ground, and for large indeterminate varieties you can prune them to keep the tomatoes under control. This improves the air circulation as well, which can help the pollination of the plants.

However, like most container garden approaches, the key to making it work well is to keep it watered well without water-logging the tomato plants. This is what usually sets apart one planter type from another...

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Build A Simple Planter Box

Love flowers, but don't have the space -- or the desire -- to plant a garden? You may want to try making your own flower box, which can be just about any size you wish.

This planter box is built with a top and a bottom exterior frame; then you affix cedar panels to the frame and add bottom panels. After that, just add plants for a touch of spring anywhere you want to put it!

Expert tip: Always draw a diagram before you build anything. Remember: If you can't draw it, you can't build it! You don't have to be Leonardo Divinci, just that YOU can read it!! Your diagram will be useful in helping you determine the size of your project and the amount of lumber you'll need. Simply take the finished diagram with you when you go shopping, and you'll be sure to get everything your project requires.

Materials:

Four Lengths of 26 Inch 1x2 Cedar

Four Lengths of 13 Inch 1x2 Cedar

Twelve Side & End Panels 5 ½ Inches x 12 ¼

Two Base Panels 1 Inch x 6 Inches x 24 Inches

Wood glue

Galvanized nails

Hammer

Stainless-steel or Ceramic Coated Screws

Drill driver and bits

Speed square

Note: All our sections were precut, so they just need assembly. If you can't or don't wish to cut your own lumber, home-supply stores will generally cut it for you for a small fee.

Expert tip: Before you begin hammering, use sandpaper to rough up the striking surface of your hammer. Then it's less likely to slip while you're working.

Building the Frames

Build the top and bottom frames out of the 1x2 cedar strips. You'll be butting the ends together, so no mitering will be necessary.

1.Fasten two 26" strips to two 13" strips to form each rectangular frame. (You'll need to ensure that the length remains 26"; to do this, butt the ends of the shorter strip against the longer strips. The thickness of the two longer strips will add an inch to each end of the shorter strips, increasing their length to 16". Do this at each end of the longer strips to form a rectangular frame 26" long and 16" wide.)

2. Apply a bead of wood glue to the junctions of the strips; then nail together with a single nail in each junction in preparation for inserting screws to hold them more securely.

3. Predrill the ends prior to screwing them together; this helps keep the ends from splitting. Then insert a screw in each corner.

Attaching the Side Panels

1. Stand the two frames on their sides and apply a bead of wood glue to the inside face of the bottom side frames (the long sides).

2. Attach four side panels to each long side, smooth sides out, and nail from the inside to hold them in place. Make sure the frames are flush with the panel ends on at least one side, or the bottom panels won't fit properly. If the panels are jagged on the other side, you can always smooth them with a trim saw later.

Tip: Because you're nailing from the inside, you may have to drive the nails at a slight angle. The advantage of this is that it conceals the nailheads from the exterior face of the window box.

3. Repeat step 2 on the other side of the box.

Attaching the End Panels

1. Stand the half-completed box on its end and apply a bead of wood glue to the inside face of the bottom end frames.

2. Attach two panels to each end in the same manner that you used to attach the side panels, once again ensuring that the ends are flush on the bottom.

3. Repeat the process on the opposite end.

Attaching the Bottom Panels

1. Check and if necessary adjust your box for square.

2. Attach three bottom panels to form the base of the planter box, using wood glue and screws. The base will reinforce and brace the box.

3. Drill several holes in the panels so that water can escape, or simply leave a gap between the panels.

Finishing

Lightly sand any rough edges and corners to smooth out splinters. Now it's time to feel, smell, kiss and hug your new planter box, because it looks so good - and you did it yourself!

Homework!

If you wish, you can stain, seal or prime and paint your planter to suit your home's decor. Because you used cedar, however, it can stay unfinished: cedar is one of the best lumbers you can use for exterior applications.

This planter is a good size for potted plants, but you may wish to add a plastic liner and fill it with soil (add a layer of gravel first). If you do, don't forget to cut holes in the liner to line up with the drainage holes in the bottom of the planter.

Enjoy planting!

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Topsy Turvy Planter

Topsy Turvy Planter is the ultimate tomato growing tool... budurl.com

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Upside Down Tomato Planter - Part 1

My mom gave this to me and I'm going to see if it's any good. I planted an Early Girl plant in 100% organic compost and nothing else...all I had at the time. I will eventually hang it higher, of course. Music: "It Is What It Is" by The Highwaymen

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Upside Down - Perfect for Growing Your Tomatoes

Upside down tomato planters have become fairly popular over the last few years. There are articles on how you can build your own, and there are a number of commercially available units. But what are the advantages of using these upside down planters, and what kind of options do you have for buying or making one?

Upside Down Hanging Tomato Planter - Should You Make or Buy One

There are several types of planters you can buy. Some are for just a single plant, while others handle several plants. They can be used on a deck or even a balcony, bringing fresh tomatoes to the apartment or condo dweller.

They are advertised heavily to be used for tomatoes, but they can also be used to grow smaller bush plants like peppers and maybe even eggplants. Many herbs will grow well in these planters.

There are smaller planters (one of the most popular is the Topsy Turvy hanging planter) that your can find for less than $20. It will usually hold one tomato plant (you can sometimes put a second one on the top), and will need someplace to hang.

Another type is the larger self supporting free standing units like the Upside Down Tomato Garden. This garden unit stands almost five feet tall and is designed to hold several tomato plants, and herbs or flowers on the top. An ideal fit for an apartment balcony or patio, it will also serve well as a nice little garden space you can put close to your kitchen on a deck.

You should be aware that when you have filled these with plants and they are fully loaded they can weigh too much to easily move, so plan ahead when considering its location, so you don't have to move the loaded unit. The larger free standing upside down tomato garden will hold almost 80 pounds of soil, so you don't want to be moving it after it's loaded.

You can build an upside down planter yourself. One common approach is to use a plastic bucket for a planter by cutting a hole in the bottom that is a few inches in diameter to allow the plant to grow out. You can hang it from a hook on the house, or build a simple sawhorse bracket.

Pros of Using an Upside Down Tomato Planter

With the tomatoes hanging in the air they can ripen without rot. You have fewer problems with pests like snails and ants. Make sure to keep the planter soil moist, as all container grown plants tend to dry out fairly quickly in hot weather.

An upside down tomato garden is perfect for your apartment on a your balcony or a backyard patio, or put one on a patio or deck for those who are wanting to have part of their garden closer to the kitchen.

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Planter Boxes - An Amazing Way to Garden

A unique look in a back yard is comprised of more than a couple of pretty plants. It takes creativity. Think of a sitting garden. There are places to walk, places to sit, unique plants and defining portions of the garden that will draw your attention. You could do this by creating a garden maze. You don't have to have a massive backyard for this theme, just a space you want to dedicate to gardening, and a fun escape from the rest of the world.

You will be building this garden maze with a single to double layer of concrete blocks, as the planter boxes and maze walls, and decorative planter boxes to jazz up the view. Instead of traditional maze 'walls' you will be placing plants in the 'walls' so it is a colorful, creative garden stroll. You may also want to put a bench in the middle of the area, or table and chairs, so you have a space to enjoy your handiwork.

Start with a page of graph paper. After you have measured the area of the yard you want to turn into your garden maze you need to create your design on the graph paper. Make sure the walking areas are at least 2 ½ feet wide. Remember, you will be using concrete block planter boxes as your path guides so they will take away from some of the walking space.

You also need to think about what kinds of plants you want to have lining your walk. You may wish to have a few themes, starting with flowers, moving on to vegetables and vine plants, the limits are really your imagination.

Once you have decided on the design, you need to start purchasing the concrete blocks to create the path. You will be laying the blocks out with the hole-side up, since they will be some of your planter boxes. Once the path is down, you may want to look for areas you want to add a little accent, with decorative planters. There are some planters that look like statues, or large vases on a pedestal and can be striking among the other plants.

From here you have one of two ways to go, you can start planting, or disguise the concrete block planter boxes. If you don't want them to look like concrete blocks, you can use a wall finish texturing that many masons use. It should be readily available in a home improvement store. This will add texture to the concrete block planter boxes and make them look more like a custom designed concrete creation than a bunch of blocks. You can even paint them at this point to add a little color.

Next, fill all the concrete planter boxes holes with potting soil, or a rich soil mixture that will work for the plants, and start planting.

With a little love from you and Mother Nature you will have a green and flowering maze garden in your backyard that will give you years of enjoyment.

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Planter Boxes - An Amazing Way to Garden

A unique look in a back yard is comprised of more than a couple of pretty plants. It takes creativity. Think of a sitting garden. There are places to walk, places to sit, unique plants and defining portions of the garden that will draw your attention. You could do this by creating a garden maze. You don't have to have a massive backyard for this theme, just a space you want to dedicate to gardening, and a fun escape from the rest of the world.

You will be building this garden maze with a single to double layer of concrete blocks, as the planter boxes and maze walls, and decorative planter boxes to jazz up the view. Instead of traditional maze 'walls' you will be placing plants in the 'walls' so it is a colorful, creative garden stroll. You may also want to put a bench in the middle of the area, or table and chairs, so you have a space to enjoy your handiwork.

Start with a page of graph paper. After you have measured the area of the yard you want to turn into your garden maze you need to create your design on the graph paper. Make sure the walking areas are at least 2 ½ feet wide. Remember, you will be using concrete block planter boxes as your path guides so they will take away from some of the walking space.

You also need to think about what kinds of plants you want to have lining your walk. You may wish to have a few themes, starting with flowers, moving on to vegetables and vine plants, the limits are really your imagination.

Once you have decided on the design, you need to start purchasing the concrete blocks to create the path. You will be laying the blocks out with the hole-side up, since they will be some of your planter boxes. Once the path is down, you may want to look for areas you want to add a little accent, with decorative planters. There are some planters that look like statues, or large vases on a pedestal and can be striking among the other plants.

From here you have one of two ways to go, you can start planting, or disguise the concrete block planter boxes. If you don't want them to look like concrete blocks, you can use a wall finish texturing that many masons use. It should be readily available in a home improvement store. This will add texture to the concrete block planter boxes and make them look more like a custom designed concrete creation than a bunch of blocks. You can even paint them at this point to add a little color.

Next, fill all the concrete planter boxes holes with potting soil, or a rich soil mixture that will work for the plants, and start planting.

With a little love from you and Mother Nature you will have a green and flowering maze garden in your backyard that will give you years of enjoyment.

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