Topsy Turvy vs Homemade (Week 2)

This week shows a bit of a difference between the growth of the plants. Take a look.

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Jason's Pre-Garden 2010 Part 4

So just showing some of the plants I have so far. Not a whole lot different from last week. I'm just waiting to plant outside.

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Transplant Tomato Seedlings - How and When?

The best time to transplant tomato seedlings from a pot to your garden is when they are between 5 and 8 weeks old, and well after the last frost in your area. Read the following tips to ensure successful transplantation.

Make sure your tomato plants are a garden - not greenhouse - variety.
Leave your seedlings out in the sunlight for a few hours each day up to two weeks before transplanting. Leave them out at night during the second week if the temperature is above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In this way, the plants will acclimatize to being outside and so be hardier when they are transplanted.
Preheat the soil in your garden before you transplant tomato seedlings by laying black plastic over it for a couple of weeks. Tomato plants love heat.
Plant seedlings deeper than they were planted in their pots. Plant so that just a few top leaves are above the surface of the soil by digging a deep hole (twice as wide as the root ball) or a horizontal trench (the plant will straighten up and grow towards the sun even if you plant it flat). This encourages a more extensive root structure, as roots can form all along the stem.
Sprinkle manure around holes and add some kelp meal before planting.
Leave two to three feet of space between plants.
Pat down soil firmly after planting, and water well.
Do not mulch too early. Mulching is good because it helps the soil retain moisture, but it also keeps the soil cooler than it would otherwise be.
Remove the leaves from the bottom one foot of a plant when it reaches 3 feet tall. This helps to minimize the risk of fungal infection.

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Tomato Growing - Proper Nutrition For Huge Tomato Plants

Every tomato grower has a "secret recipe" for tomato growing success. An integral part of high tomato yield is proper plant nutrition. Plants need food, too! Giving a plant the right food at the right time will not only increase fruit yield, it will also help prevent damage from diseases and pests.

Plant Nutrients

Plants do not eat hamburgers and French fries, but they do still need "nutrients." Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the three nutrients most commonly fed to plants. Most fertilizers are a combination of the three. When reading a fertilizer package, a three number series such as 3-0-3, or 15-10-5, presents the ratio of all three nutrients in the fertilizer. Other nutrients and minerals, in smaller amounts, help tomato plants grow robustly and healthily. Plants get nutrients from the soil in which they are planted, so soil preparation is integral to providing plant nutrients in proper amounts.

To determine which nutrients your garden soil needs to promote healthy plant growth, prepare a soil sample and send it to your local cooperative extension office for analysis. The soil sample will allow you to properly prepare the garden soil and add just enough of each lacking nutrient to grow healthy plants. Another important test is the soil pH. Soil pH affects the way plants are able to take in nutrients. If your soil is too high or too low, you will want to amend the pH by adding mulch (to increase acidity) or lime (to increase alkalinity.)

When to Add Nutrients Tomato plants need nutrients at differing amounts at various stages of growth. After receiving soil test results and before planting tomatoes, work a general fertilizer into the soil. Ratios of 5-10-10 or 8-16-16 are good to start. The soil test results will tell you if you are seriously lacking one nutrient or another.

Once the plant begins growing, different ratios of nutrients promote best growth. Once the plant starts flowering, it needs a higher ratio of potassium.

Soil Composition for Plant Nutrition

Adding fertilizer is only one step to providing plants with proper nutrients and increasing crop yield. Soil composition and structure directly affects tomato plant health. Tomato plants thrive by growing roots deep into the soil. Hard clay soils must be broken and amended with compost to promote healthy root growth. Overly sandy soils need addition of organic matter in order to hold water and nutrients.

Compost for High Fruit Yield

Organic matter is an essential component of soil. Adding proper organic matter will greatly improve soil health, while adding improper organic matter is detrimental to soil. Organic matter can be added by top dressing or double digging. Top dressing with organic works exactly as it sounds-you add organic matter to the top of the soil, almost like a mulch. Double-digging requires digging and removing soil, mixing the organic matter into the soil, and replacing the newly combined soil.

Great organic matters are already composted, or broken down. As wood chips, leaves and other compost breaks down, it uses nitrogen. It is important to add composted organic matter rather than fresh, as fresh matter will remove essential nutrients from the soil. If fresh organic matter is all that is available, be sure to add nitrogen along with the organic matter.

Soil composition is one key to tomato growing success. Structure, pH, and nutrient availability all contribute to plant health. For more detailed information on soil health and how to manage nutrition (including diagnosing nutrient deficiencies), consult a comprehensive tomato growing reference such as How to Grow Tasty Juicy Tomatoes.

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How to Care For Your Plants

Sunscald is an injury prevalent in the prairie sections of the country. It appears as dead sunken areas of bark on the trunks of trees particularly on the south and southwest sides. Exposed trunks of fruit trees, especially apple and pear, and some ornamental trees such as the mountain ash, suffer from this condition. Apparently the injury occurs in late winter. Day temperatures above the freezing point followed by below-freezing nights cause damage to the wood on the exposed side of the tree. Most damage occurs on the southwest side of the trunk.

This kind of damage can be lessened if young trees are trained so they branch low to the ground. Growing mountain ash in a clump form instead of to a single trunk aids in lessening sunscald injury. Growing shrubs near the base of susceptible trees assists in protecting tender bark. Painting trunks with white paint is another "old timers" method followed.

Rodents can do considerable harm to ornamental trees and shrubs during winter months. Lawns are also scarred by the burrowing activities of these animals. Field mice migrate into a cultivated area especially if their regular feeding areas become covered with heavy snows. As their regular source of food is cut off, they build runways to favorite trees and shrubs and feed on the soft bark of these plants near ground level.

Protect from Animals

Rabbits often completely girdle trees and shrubs and in that way, kill them. Rabbits feed at snow level, so if the snow is drifted high, the feeding will occur above the ground level of the plants. Just like having fungicides to control pests, a number of repellents on the market are effective in the control of this pest. Maybe you prefer the old fashioned cure -the shotgun. In a deer area these animals may become troublesome because they feed on young tender growth of many kinds of deciduous shrubs and trees. One of the plants especially relished by deer is the native Red Osier Dogwood.

Adequate fencing provides the best solution for preventing such damage. It is an expensive method, but is effective. Wrapping trunks of valuable fruit trees with coarse screening is another way to prevent girdling by rodents. These coverings must reach high enough to take care of changes in snow level during the winter. If the snow drifts above the protective covering, better get out the shotgun (just kidding)!

Snow is one of nature's important mulches, since it protects tender perennial plants over the cold winter months of the north. The snow acts as an insulation, protecting plants from extreme changes in temperature which happen so often in this section of the country. The greatest danger is ice formation at ground level. If this happens, much of the insulating value of the snow is lost. Providing good sub-surface, and especially good surface drainage, is one way of reducing ice formation at the base of perennial plants.

Keep from Losing Snow

When we witness a cold, blizzardy day in January, we can realize the importance of not cutting down the stalks and tops of perennial plants such as peony or delphinium. A perennial border cleaned bare of its plant growth in the fall, often loses its protective snow cover when the first blizzard of winter strikes. A good shrub border, hedge or fence placed adjacent to the perennials serves much the same purpose, to keep the snow from blowing off.

Long winter months in this area make us appreciate plant materials that give color to our landscape setting at this time of year. Evergreens are especially suitable for this purpose. We should be reminded not to plant all our small evergreens around the foundation of the house. Some evergreens placed elsewhere in the yard aid in brightening the winter scene as viewed from our windows. The colorful bark of red and yellow twigged native dogwoods and willows will brighten the winter landscape picture. Think, too, of using berried shrubs and trees such as viburnums, flowering crabapples, mountain ash and haws. Many such plants offer food for our visiting winter birds.

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hangingtomato

Blatant Subliminalism in the Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter commercial.

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14 Tips to Grow Happy Tomato Plants

Just dropping in for a quick list of successful tomato tips.

DETERMINATE tomato plants produce a heavier yield at one time and are best for canning. INDETERMINATE tomatoes bear fruit throughout the summer and tend to sprawl. Best for continual eating enjoyment. Transplant tomatoes when all danger of frost is past. Put in well drained soil, and mix in some humus or compost if needed. Putting plastic jugs over the plants creates a greenhouse effect and can help them grow faster. Just keep an eye on daytime temperatures. Transplant on a cool evening to prevent wilt and transplant shock. Space plants two feet apart in rows three feet apart. Snip off bottom leaves and plant DEEP. Leave about 4-6 inches of crown above the ground with the leaves on. The plant shoots roots from the entire stem underground, developing a better system. "Mud in" your new tomatoes. Dig the hole three times larger than the root ball, place the plant in, and fill halfway up with water. Then carefully pack dirt around the plant. Always "side dress" your new tomatoes. Make a ring around the plant about one foot away, sprinkle 10-10-10 garden fertilizer in the ring, and water well. READ THE DIRECTIONS on all fertilizers so you don't burn your plants. Keep the plants watered according to weather conditions. Don't overwater, as this results in poor aeration and stem rot. Mulch if desired. Keep the area weed free, but don't hoe too close to the plant. This breaks off the roots that supply water to the fruit. Before they start setting fruit, dust the plants about every ten days with a good combination insecticide and fungicide. Do this before they show symptoms, because it's difficult to stop blight once it's started. If blight does infest your plants, DO NOT plant tomatoes in the same area the next year. Two common problems with tomato plants are "leaf roll" and "white shoulders." Leaf roll is caused by too much fertilizer or herbicide spray. White shoulders appear on the tomatoes and are caused by extremely high temperatures. Plants may be allowed to sprawl over the ground, but they produce better fruit if tied to stakes at least four feet tall. All indeterminate plants should be staked. Before first frost, pull up your tomatoes and hang them upside down in a protected place. Many of the green tomatoes will ripen. Keep dry or mold will occur.

These tips will keep your tomato plants happy, and you happy, all summer long.

Use your summer bounty to its best advantage by canning plain tomatoes and seasoning them when you actually cook them in the winter. Try the Savory Herb and Spice Adventure which features Oregano, Basil, Rosemary, Fennel, Caraway and Tarragon, or choose the Beyond Basil Herb and Spice Adventure which features Thyme, Sage, Dill, Marjoram, Rosemary, and Bay. If you reap more than you thought you would, try both of these culinary adventures!

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Earth Box Garden - Does the Earth Box Planter Work?

The Earth Box garden system has been around since 2001. It is a container gardening system, primarily targeting vegetable container gardens. Let's take a look at its features.

Size: It holds about 2 cubic feet of soil. This is plenty of room for a decent number of vegetable plants. For example, with that much room you could grow two tomato plants, or 8 medium size plants like pepper plants, broccoli, or cabbage. For smaller plants like peas or beans you could grow 16 plants in one container. Other commonly planted vegetables include artichokes, strawberries, and squash. It works great as an herb garden, and obviously could be used as a flower container as well. The size is perfect for a patio or balcony.

Self Watering: The system has a built in reservoir for holding the water for the garden. With this system it is supposed to be self watering, as long as you keep the watering reservoir of the Earth Box topped off.

Mobile: There is an optional caster set for this garden container. That is a good idea, because with 2 cubic feet of soil, and the water in the reservoir the planter can get quite heavy, and if you need to move it the weight would be a problem without some sort of wheels. This allows you to easily put it in a place where it can get the required six to eight hours of sunlight every day.

Staking System: Since the Earth Box is marketed as a vegetable growing system, some of the most popular types of garden plants like tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers and other vines will need some type of staking system. There is an optional staking system that you can buy that maintains the stability of the system, since staking directly into the container itself would make it prone to tipping over.

Weed control: The Earth Box system includes a soil cover that is intended to help maintain moisture while keeping weeds down and soil born pests at bay.

There are a few more things about watering and fertilization you need to know to make the Earth Box as productive as possible...

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Tomato Planter - Easy to Use - Minimal Space and Minimal Maintenance

Growing tomatoes has just got easier and you don't even have to have a lot of space in your garden, on your balcony or in your kitchen. Yes, you can even grow your tomatoes in your kitchen with the latest innovation in tomato growing called the Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter.

What makes this device so amazing is that you don't need a lot of soil, and you don't have to have a lot of space. They also work extremely well for other vegetable growing and herbs. The concept is based on tomatoes growing just as well downwards as they would normally do upwards. You could be eating your own sweet and tasty home grown tomatoes within just a very short space of time.

How Do They Work?

So how can you grow veggies indoors without making a complete mess of your kitchen floor? The Topsy Turvy Tomato Planter has a controlled watering system that makes sure that your tomato only gets as much water as it needs, so that no matter how experienced or inexperienced you are at growing tomatoes, you won't have to worry about under or over watering them. The water system also keeps you from having to worry about dripping water and damaging your kitchen floor.

Having the right amount of water will ensure that your tomato plants give the very best yield. If you overwater, they tend to produce tasteless tomatoes and under-watering can result in no tomatoes at all. The upside down tomato planter, as it is sometimes called, has been made with a foam base which stores the water and gradually feeds the roots of the plant.

How Much Maintenance Do They Need?

Your tomato planter is extremely low maintenance producing tomatoes while you do better things. You don't have to stop at growing just tomatoes. There are various designs in tomato planters for peppers and herbs and other great vegetables. So even if you don't have a good track record in the garden, you can still enjoy tasty, wholesome, fresh vegetables at home without any fuss.

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Compost, Part 2 - Where Do I Put All This Stuff?

You have a number of choices, here. A compost bin, box, tumbler, trench or heap - all will work, its a matter of personal preference. Let us look.

Compost Bin. This can be made out of just about anything; discarded 44gal. drums are good, provided they are clean of petro-chemicals; plastic cherry-bins are ideal. For the most part, it needs to be big enough that you could climb into it. Cut off the top and bottom - keep one of these for the lid. Make a number of 'breathing-holes' around the shell - these can be either cut or drilled through. A plastic rubbish bin will do. Once again, cut off the bottom, make holes in the side - then turn it upside-down, so that the wider opening sits on the ground. The idea of no bottom, is to allow the insects, worms and micro-organisms which help degradation of your waste materials the freedom to migrate into and out of your compost.

Compost Box. This can be made out of anything you have to hand, be it old pallets, bricks, or spare lumber. Bales of hay work quite well - the hay ultimately becoming compost itself.

Plastic Composters. There are a number of plastic composters available, stand alone units and tumblers. These are made of a special grade plastic that 'breathes'. A tumbler, is a compost bin, turned on its side; and with the aid of a crank handle, is turned a quarter turn every couple of weeks or so - effectively mixing the compost for you. The is one draw-back with these, though - the tendency to turn it too often, or really crank-it-up; then you end up with this glutinous ball, not much good for anything.

Trenching. This is quite an old-fashioned way of composting, but certainly worth discussing. A trench is dug, about double spade-width, the soil left on the side of the trench. All your waste is placed at the start of the trench, without spreading it out - the soil left on the side, is then back-filled over the material you have just placed in there. Then, the next-time you have more material, it is placed at what is now the start of the trench; and back-filled again. When you have run out of trench - start a new one. This is actually a good way to revitalize vegetable gardens, ordinarily made in bed-rows. An entire row is dug out and becomes the trench, filled with organic material, back-filled; and left to its own devices for about 6 months - then turned over and made ready for planting again.

Compost Heaps. A compost heap, is just that - a heap of compost material. However, the whole process will work much better, if it is managed a bit. By this I mean 'caging' it. Using 4 to 6 stakes or pickets hammered into the ground, in a vague circle; chicken-wire, sparrow-wire, or arc-mesh is then formed around them, creating an open-ended cage. Large sheets of cardboard can be used; and will eventually decompose, too. Black sheet plastic can also be used as a surround, but it tends to deteriorate and tear, fairly quickly - then you have to get rid of it some way. Back to the dump, oh dear.

The basic idea of all these designs can be seen here.

Worm Farms. An alternative to composting in the traditional sense is vermi-composting or worm-farms. These use a special kind of worm to break down kitchen scraps producing a fine compost-like material from their casts, or leavings; and a nutrient filled liquid plant food which is ideal for feeding indoor pot plants. If you have a greenhouse, or have a lot of houseplants then a worm-farm may be the best choice for the disposal of household waste. These can be constructed by the home gardener, or store bought. There are some marvelous small, neat units quite suitable for people living in apartments,too.

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Earth Box Garden - Does the Earth Box Planter Work?

The Earth Box garden system has been around since 2001. It is a container gardening system, primarily targeting vegetable container gardens. Let's take a look at its features.

Size: It holds about 2 cubic feet of soil. This is plenty of room for a decent number of vegetable plants. For example, with that much room you could grow two tomato plants, or 8 medium size plants like pepper plants, broccoli, or cabbage. For smaller plants like peas or beans you could grow 16 plants in one container. Other commonly planted vegetables include artichokes, strawberries, and squash. It works great as an herb garden, and obviously could be used as a flower container as well. The size is perfect for a patio or balcony.

Self Watering: The system has a built in reservoir for holding the water for the garden. With this system it is supposed to be self watering, as long as you keep the watering reservoir of the Earth Box topped off.

Mobile: There is an optional caster set for this garden container. That is a good idea, because with 2 cubic feet of soil, and the water in the reservoir the planter can get quite heavy, and if you need to move it the weight would be a problem without some sort of wheels. This allows you to easily put it in a place where it can get the required six to eight hours of sunlight every day.

Staking System: Since the Earth Box is marketed as a vegetable growing system, some of the most popular types of garden plants like tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers and other vines will need some type of staking system. There is an optional staking system that you can buy that maintains the stability of the system, since staking directly into the container itself would make it prone to tipping over.

Weed control: The Earth Box system includes a soil cover that is intended to help maintain moisture while keeping weeds down and soil born pests at bay.

There are a few more things about watering and fertilization you need to know to make the Earth Box as productive as possible...

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Final Review for the Topsy Turvy for the 2009 Season...

I give my final review and recommendations for better results using the Topsy Turvy...

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Upside Down and Topsy Turvy Tomatoes - Grow Tomatoes Hanging Upside Down Without A Garden

Tomatoes are a popular choice with the home gardener. Almost everyone loves the idea of freshly picked tomatoes to use as part of their summer diet. The biggest obstacle to growing tomatoes is the space required. For those trying to grow tomatoes on their patio or balcony, using a container to grow tomatoes still takes up valuable space, and you are usually restricted to using some of the smaller varieties of tomatoes, like the ever popular Patio tomato. These varieties have small vines and don't need a lot of staking, but usually don't produce the large juicy tomatoes that we all dream of picking.

A recently popular alternative to container growing tomatoes is to use a hanging tomato planter. They range from simple bags from under $15 that hold a single plant, to a free standing garden that holds 4 plants and assorted herbs and radishes as well. The idea is simple enough, you start a tomato plant growing in the container, either by transplanting a tomato plant into it or germinating the seeds in the planter while it's not upside down. You then hang the planter up on some hook, taking care to put it high enough that the variety you have chosen will have enough room to grow.

Advantages of Hanging Tomato Planters:

These advantages include:

No need to stake your tomato plants
Few problems with slugs and other soil based pests
Soil borne disease is significantly reduced because you can use fresh potting soil
Weeds are almost no problem, especially if you choose a soil-less mix
Air movement around the plants is improved, so you get good pollination, and few problems with rot

But if you choose to use an upside down hanging tomato planter for your patio or balcony, there are a few things you need will need to do differently...

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My garden plants part 2 (2009)

Annotations Show what cultivare are planted. Year 2009 Be sure to see part 1 and any other future additions.

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Upside down tomato planter www.pennystomatoes.com

Make your own upside down tomato planters. Free with stuff from garage and shed. www.pennystomatoes.com

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